Our resins and hardeners are packaged in plastic jugs up to one gallon in size and with a sealed top. Multiple gallon kits are still shipped in gallon increments. We take great pride in our packing methods which are followed for every box we ship. This means your shipment virtually always arrives intact and damage free.

You may return most new, unopened items within 30 days of delivery for a full refund. We’ll also pay the return shipping costs if the return is a result of our error (you received an incorrect or defective item, etc.).

You should expect to receive your refund within 4 weeks of giving your package to the return shipper; however, in many cases, you will receive a refund more quickly. This period includes the transit time for us to receive your return from the shipper (5–10 business days), the time it takes us to process your return once we receive it (3–5 business days), and the time it takes your bank to process our refund request (5–10 business days).

If you need to return an item, simply contact us at info@promiseepoxy.com so we can process a return request and send you a return label.

For our full return policy, click here.

Any Orders Received On A Business Day At Or Before 4:00 PM (EST) Will Ship Out Same Business Day (All orders shipping to a United States Address)

Any Orders Received After 04:00 PM (EST) Will Ship Out the Following Business Day

Let’s take a look at some examples. Keep in mind that all orders need to be in stock and no payment, fraud, or address holds must be placed on your order for these examples to be true. Issues regarding your order can delay shipping times. We do our best to correct any of these issues for you. Always double-check your shipping and billing address before completing your order at checkout. We will notify you of an error if it affects your order’s shipping times.

Example 1 – If you place an order on a Monday at 3:30 PM, then it will ship out on that same Monday.
Example 2 – If you place your order on Friday at 5:30 PM, then it will ship out on the following Monday.
Example 3 – If you place an order on Saturday or Sunday at any time, they will ship out the following Monday.

Customer Service Hours of Operation
Monday–Friday
9 AM–5 PM Eastern Time

Holidays will affect handling time. Promise Epoxy recognizes all holidays that our shipping carriers recognize. For more information, please check the shipping carrier’s website for the holiday schedule.

Shipping Times

Shipping time is dependent on what item was purchased, how heavy the order is, and how far away you live from our shipping facilities.

If you choose any of our free shipping methods, then we will ship the order out as economically as possible based on these US carriers: FedEx. We do not allow our customers to specify which carrier we use. You can select from multiple shipping methods at the checkout section if you desire. Shipping fees will be charged accordingly.

Our testing has shown that epoxy freezing for a short period of time is not harmful to the product and will properly cure. You must bring the product back to its natural state. We strongly suggest not storing the epoxy anywhere which could result in freezing for more than a few days.

Advisory Notes:

We strongly recommend that all of these instructions are thoroughly read BEFORE working with epoxy resin.
This product is not intended to be used with, or over any, type of oil-based products.
This product is not intended for outdoor use.
All epoxy has natural variations in color/tint, which may be accented by the color of the surface to which the epoxy is applied. White surfaces, for instance, are always the most challenging in terms of highlighting epoxy hue variations and changes.

1) Before You Begin
Surface Coverage – We offer an epoxy resin coverage calculator to help determine how much epoxy you will need based upon the square footage of the surface you will be working with.

Working Conditions/Temperature – Optimal product working temperature is 75°F–85°F. The product must be stored, mixed, applied, and cured for 72 hours at 75°F–85°F. THIS IS A REQUIREMENT to achieve desired results. If the product has been exposed to cold temperatures; acclimate by placing jugs in a warm water bath. Climate-controlled conditions are required to properly work with epoxy to control both temperature and humidity levels – which affect both working time and proper curing.

Safety – This product has no Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs); however, we recommend working with epoxy resin in a well-ventilated area. We also recommend protective eyewear and gloves when working with the product. NOTE: Some people may be more sensitive to epoxy than others – and may wish to wear a ventilator when using the product. For skin contact, wash with soap and warm water. If the epoxy comes in contact with the eyes, do not rub, and flush with water for 15 minutes repeatedly. If irritation persists, seek medical attention immediately. Please contact us for a Materials Safety Data Sheet. (MSDS)

Surface Preparation – The project surface should be free of any dirt, dust, oils, or grease. Denatured alcohol or acetone can be used to clean the surface with a lint-free rag. Your surface should be level so the epoxy can self-level. The room you are working in should be clean, dry, dust and insect-free. Settling dust can cause imperfections on the surface of the epoxy as it is curing.

2) Measuring and Mixing – Tools & Tips
Measuring – It is imperative that the product is measured as accurately as possible and mixed thoroughly. Measure 1-part RESIN to 1-part HARDENER by liquid volume (not weight). Do NOT vary this ratio.

NOTE: We do not recommend mixing a combined total of more than 1 gallon at a time.

Mixing – Add hardener, then resin to a mixing container with about 30% greater capacity than the amount of product you are mixing.

The goal of mixing is a thorough combination of the two parts. (It helps some people to think of a cake batter mix.) In order to obtain a uniform consistency after mixing – scraping the sides & bottom of the container during mixing is required.

Mix with a flat bottom stir stick or silicon spatula being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the container multiple times as you mix. Do not beat or whip the epoxy. We do not recommend using a drill. A folding motion combined with stirring and scraping the mixing vessel sides will allow you to thoroughly combine the two parts. Mix time varies by the volume of product being mixed. Tabletop epoxy quantities of 64–128 ounces typically require 5–8 minutes. Use a timer, if you need.

Do not mix any longer than 8–10 minutes. Overmixing the epoxy will cause it to cure quickly in the mixing cup. The product will also get hot and possibly smoke. If you are mixing several batches of epoxy, be sure to use a new, clean container every time.

Pro Tip – If you are new to using epoxy, we recommend starting your mixing process with small batches until you get the hang of it. Epoxy is a time-sensitive product and needs to be mixed and poured before the epoxy begins to cure. Epoxy cures when the two components are mixed in the correct ratio. The process is an exothermic reaction (which means it gives off heat). We do not advise mixing more than 1 gallon of combined product at a time. If the product is mixed and applied per these directions premature curing can be avoided.

Factors that may cause epoxy resin premature curing are:

*Over-vigorous mixing – mix by hand (don’t whip)
*Mixing for too many minutes
*Allowing epoxy to sit in the mixing vessel too long after mixing
*Pouring too deep a layer – the epoxy is designed for 1/8″ thick flood coats with a maximum of 1/4″ depth
*Why is this happening? As soon as the two parts of epoxy and resin are combined, the exothermic reaction that leads to eventual curing, begins. The process of pouring the mixture onto a surface spreads out the epoxy so that it may undergo its reaction as expected. When the mixture is confined, such as in a mixing vessel, the reaction is intensified and will occur in a much faster and concentrated manner. This leads to excessive heat and possibly smoking. This also occurs during a deep pour.

3) Application & Curing

Seal Coat - A seal coat is a small batch of epoxy that is typically brushed on in a very thin layer to seal a porous surface (hardwood, barn wood, knotty wood, etc.). The seal coat minimizes the release of air (bubbles) from the surface into the flood coat. (see below). Promise Table Top Epoxy Resin is used for both seal coats and flood coats.

NOTES:

Do not use the product over any oil-based or unknown coatings.
Aged and kiln-dried porous woods may need multiple seal coats—it is not uncommon for as many as 3 seal coats to be used on these surfaces
You may skip the seal coat when pouring the epoxy on a non-porous surface.
As epoxy cures rather rapidly in the container, it is necessary to paint the seal coat on quickly; or mix up small amounts as you apply to avoid curing in the container while you are working. Porous wood may require multiple thin seal coats.

Air Bubbles – Once the entire surface has been covered with a seal coat, the process of releasing/removing air bubbles may begin. The best tool for removing bubbles is a small propane torch. (A heat gun may also be used but takes a bit more practice to manipulate as easily and effectively as a torch.) Hold the flame approximately 6–10 inches away from the tabletop and quickly sweep across the entire surface using a waving motion. The heat from the torch/gun will allow for the release of the air bubbles. Allow 3–4 hours between seal coats.

NOTE: it is best to intermittently check the surface for bubbles for up to an hour using a torch (or heat gun) as needed.

Once the entire surface is sealed, wait 6–8 hours before proceeding to the flood coat. If the seal is allowed to cure, just lightly sand the surface (320-grit) and wipe clean with a drop of denatured alcohol or acetone before flooding to ensure adhesion of the next coat.

The Flood Coat - To apply the flood coat, start on one end and pour the resin the entire length of the surface, zigzagging as you go. After you are finished pouring your mixture, set the container down. DO NOT SCRAPE ANYTHING OUT OF THE MIXING BUCKET. Because you are pouring about three times the amount of product you did with the seal coat, the material will immediately start to flow out. However, you may still want to use a foam brush to help guide the material around the edges. A true flood coat will require minimal manipulation.

The product is designed for 1/8″ thick pours but people often pour up to 1/4″ thick at a time. After 4 hours you can pour another layer directly onto the previous layer. If it has been more than 10 hours the previous layer should be lightly sanded (200–300 grit) and wiped clean with a drop of denatured alcohol or acetone before pouring your next layer.

Edges and Drips – The flood coat can be allowed to run over the sides which will create a coating on the vertical edges. These vertical edge coats will not be as thick as the top surface coating; so, manipulation with a brush to keep the layer even is suggested. Drips will form underneath the bar rail or edge, these drips can be sanded off once the epoxy has cured. Or, if you catch the epoxy when still soft during the curing process, drips may be cut or scraped off.

Air Bubbles – Once the entire surface has been covered with a flood coat, the process of releasing/removing air bubbles may begin. The best tool for removing bubbles is a small propane torch. (A heat gun may also be used but takes a bit more practice to manipulate as easily and effectively as a torch.) Hold the flame approximately 6–10 inches away from the tabletop and quickly sweep across the entire surface using a waving motion. The heat from the torch/gun will allow for the release of the air bubbles.

NOTE: it is best to intermittently check the surface for bubbles for up to an hour using a torch (or heat gun) as needed.

Curing – After applying the final coat, the epoxy resin surface should be kept in a clean, dust-free environment at a minimum of 75°F–80° F degrees for 72 hours.

Heat Resistance – The heat resistance once fully cured is 120°F/57°C. The use of coasters and placemats is recommended to protect tabletop surfaces and also reduce heat transfer.

Many of our customers create amazing river tables! Keep in mind the maximum depth to pour is approximately 1/8”- 1/4″ thick. If depths thicker than 1/8”- 1/4″ are desired, multiple coats are necessary. You must wait at least 4–10 hours between coats to allow sufficient curing and cooling. Attempting to pour thicker can cause the epoxy to generate excessive heat which in turn will cause more air bubbles, possibly cracking and shrinkage. You will be able to pour up to unlimited depths if you follow the instructions. If you want to pour more than 1/4" at a time we recommend using our Deep Pour Epoxy.

Our table top was initially designed for bar tops and flat surfaces. However, many of our customers have thought outside the box and have come up with amazing alternative application techniques one of them being tumblers.

Here are some Tumbler Tips submitted by our customers:

1. Make sure the room is kept warm throughout the entire application process and at least 2–3 hours after while on the spinner (I try to keep it around 77°F/78°F).
2. Use a clean cup every time (I find even using a silicone bowl that hasn’t been 100% cleaned and dried can cause issues).
3. Equal amounts of A resin and B hardener is a must and slow stirs to prevent air bubbles.
4. I feel a “cuptissourie” is also a must to keep the cup turning while it cures.
5. I will do a quick run over the cup with a handheld heat gun about 20 minutes after application (about 5–8 inches away) if I notice a lot of bubbles. Too much heat and it can get super runny and then not set properly (fisheyes & dimples)

Promise Table Top Epoxy Resin is meant to be measured using a 1:1 ratio by volume. Sides A and B differ in weight so it would not be accurate to weigh the sides before mixing. If you use this method of measurement, you are more likely to have curing problems or sticky/tacky epoxy.

EPOXY RESIN THROUGH THICK & THIN
Our epoxy resin is one of the thickest on the market! Depending on your project you may be wondering if there are ways to thicken or thin it out.

THICKENING EPOXY RESIN
Our epoxy is the perfect viscosity when pouring on bar/counter and table tops so that it does not run off the sides. Here is how thick it is. Our Epoxy has a viscosity of 10,000 CPS (centipoise). For example, peanut butter has a CPS of 25,000, so that gives you an idea of how thick it is!

We don’t recommend thickening epoxy for a few reasons.

Thickening epoxy can create problems when using the epoxy such as:

1. Air pockets in the finish
2. Streaks
3. Self-leveling problems

NOTE: Although there are other articles on the web that instruct how to thicken epoxy, we do NOT recommend it with our brand.

THINNING EPOXY RESIN
Understandably, especially for artists, a thinner epoxy is sometimes more desirable in order to manipulate on canvas, mix with mediums, or pour into silicone molds. Keep in mind that if our Tabletop Epoxy were too thin or watery, you would not get consistent results. If done incorrectly, it can be harmful to the strength characteristics of the product and the final cure. For artisans looking for a bit thinner epoxy resin for intricate artwork, we suggest our UV-Art Resin.

Here are a few ways on how you can successfully thin our Table Top Epoxy Resin:

Denatured Alcohol
Recommended over acetone and other solvents. Denatured alcohol allows you to add more solvents to the batch without affecting as much of the physical properties of the epoxy. Use a maximum of 20% added to the epoxy resin. Example: 32 ounces of epoxy to 6.4 ounces of denatured alcohol.

Acetone or Paint Thinner
When using acetone or paint thinner just add a maximum of 10% to the epoxy resin. Example: 32 ounces of epoxy to mix with 3.2 ounces of acetone or paint thinner.

Thinning with Solvents
This is the easiest and most used method for thinning epoxy. But, also the most harmful. Using a solvent can significantly affect the way your epoxy resin performs and also increase the total cure time of the epoxy. Tread lightly when using a solvent with your epoxy.

Promise provides an entire line of epoxy resins designed to meet the needs of a wide variety of artisan, crafter, marine, and DIY project requirements. So let your inner Epoxy Pro shine through in whatever creation you undertake!

The short answer is, yes. When Promise Table Top Epoxy has been measured, mixed, and cured properly it becomes safe, per FDA code, 21CFR175.300 which states “Resinous and polymeric coatings may be safely used as the food-contact surface of articles intended for use in producing, manufacturing, packing, processing, preparing, treating, packaging, transporting, or holding food” and can be used as a “functional barrier between the food and the substrate” and “intended for repeated food-contact use”.

Keep in mind that the epoxy surface is not antimicrobial, and will still have to be disinfected after uses that include serving or eating food.

Like all epoxy that you use it will have some odor. The odors will be different in each brand and can range from a light to a stronger smell. Often with an odor, it brings up the question of whether or not breathing in the epoxy resin can be a health hazard. Some customers feel as if the smell is non-existent, while it might bother some. How you interpret the smell has to do with each person’s sensitivities. It is important to know that the smell is NOT a fume or a VOC (volatile organic compound), and Promise Epoxy Resin poses no risk to your health. As with any chemical, we still want to encourage our users to work in a well-ventilated area (a large room with moving air works, as opposed to working in a small closet) and to protect your skin from the epoxy resin by wearing gloves.

Our product has a UV-resistant additive, which makes it ideal for indoor tables and art. The UV inhibitor will help to resist the yellowing of your cured epoxy project.

All epoxy yellows over time with exposure to UV light. We added a UV inhibitor to our product, but it’s still intended for indoor use. Still, we do have customers who use it outdoors regardless. Many of them report top coating with water-based outdoor polyurethane, which should significantly slow the UV degradation process.

In addition to UV-degradation issues, outdoor use in direct sun can also cause temperature issues. High temperatures above recommended mixing temperatures can cause an accelerated exothermic reaction. High temperatures after the product have been cured can also cause the epoxy to soften. These reasons are why we do not recommend the product for outdoor use. Please note darker surfaces that are not in direct sunlight may not experience noticeable yellowing or high temperatures that can cause softening.

Scratches:
Promise Table Top Epoxy is resilient, but can still be scratched by sharp or rough edges. Because of its nature, scratches on epoxy are generally unnoticeable. It is still highly recommended to use a cutting board just as with any other countertop if you are preparing any food on the surface. For the longest life, this product must have coasters and placemats used at all times.

Pro Tip – If you have used Promise Epoxy Resin for an item that will be used (such as a tumbler, coaster, serving tray, tabletop, etc) Please wait at least 3 days before putting that item to use, as it can scratch much easier before the full cure is completed. Your project will probably feel hard to touch after 12 hours but it is VERY important to wait for the full 72 hours to put your item into use. Epoxy will continue to harden over the next few months, so be sure to still be gentle with your countertops!

Heat Resistance:
When putting extremely hot items on it. It cannot be treated like granite or tile in regards to heat. The peak resistance after 100% curing in a couple of months is about 135°F. We highly recommend using coasters and placemats at all times or else hot plates or cups might leave a slight imprint on the surface. Never put a hot pan or skillet from the stove or oven directly onto the epoxy! Caution when using products containing a red dye or other colored dyes as they can stain the epoxy.

Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Full Instructional Guide

Advisory Notes:

We strongly recommend that all of these instructions are thoroughly read BEFORE working with epoxy resin.
This product is not intended to be used with or over any oil-based products.
Not intended to be poured in layers of less than 1″
This product is not intended for permanent outdoor use or direct UV exposure. It does contain UV inhibitors to help resist yellowing, but all epoxy products will eventually begin to yellow. This includes base resin, current agent, as well as the finished products.
All epoxy has natural variations in color/tint, which may be accented by the color of the surface to which the epoxy is applied. White surfaces, for instance, are always the most challenging in terms of highlighting epoxy hue variations.
Damming ~ because this is such a thin material, you must have a watertight frame. Any cracks/crevices/holes may need to be sealed before pouring to prevent leaking and ultimately losing product.

Why is this happening? As soon as the two parts of epoxy and resin are combined, the exothermic reaction that leads to eventual curing, begins. The process of pouring the mixture onto a surface – spreads out the epoxy – so it may undergo its reaction as expected. When the mixture is confined – as in a mixing vessel – the reaction is intensified and will occur in a much faster and concentrated manner. This leads to excessive heat and possibly smoking. This also occurs during a deep pour over the recommended depth.

Seal coat(s) if needed: A thin seal coat may be necessary when working with a porous surface or object. Some surfaces may contain both air and moisture that can contaminate the finish. We suggest applying a thin coat of Table Top Epoxy as a seal coat.

Step 1: Prepare 2 parts Resin (Part A) and 1-part Curing Agent (Part B) by liquid volume. Pour the Curing Agent first and then the Base Resin into a clean, smooth-sided container large enough to hold all of the liquid, allowing room for mixing without spillage. Using graduated mixing containers help to ensure properly measured amounts of Part A and B. Any variance in this mix ratio may result in curing issues.

Step 2: The material must be mixed thoroughly for at least 5 full minutes. Be sure to scrape the sides, corners, and bottom of the container as you mix. Be careful not to whip excessive air into the mixture. We recommend hand mixing with a stirrer stick or silicon spatula. If you chose to use a power mixer set to “hand speed.” Do not mix more than 3 gallons at one time. If you need to mix several batches, be sure to use a clean, dry container for each batch. Using the same container may lead to curing issues.

Step 3: Pour the mixed resin into the mold or frame of your project. DO NOT scrape out the last of the resin onto your project as unmixed epoxy on the sides or bottom of the container could contaminate your project, leading to curing issues. Multiple thinner pours of may be necessary when pouring large quantities.

Step 4: To remove air bubbles that have risen to the surface of the poured resin, use a heat gun or torch in a sweeping motion across the surface, holding the heat source approximately 6″–10″ away from the surface until no bubbles remain. Avoid heating any one spot for too long to prevent any distortions in the finish.

Step 5: Curing times can vary greatly by project, depending on mass and temperature. Gel time ranges between 18–24 hours, and cure time may range between 36–72 hours. Full cure and maximum hardness can require up to 7 days. Do not use or place any items on your project during this time.

Step 6 (optional): If you are going to make a second pour, the first pour should be firm but tacky to the touch (roughly 48 hours). If you wait until the surface is well cured, a light sanding is suggested before the re-coat to ensure proper adhesion. We suggest scuffing the surface with 320-grit. Once sanded, clean the surface thoroughly with Isopropyl Alcohol 99% to remove any dust and debris.

Working Conditions/Temperature – Optimal product working temperature is 65°F–75°F. The product must be stored, mixed, applied, and cured for 24-36 hours at 65-75°F—with a full cure for deep pours taking 48 hours or more. THIS IS A REQUIREMENT to achieve desired results. If the product has been exposed to cold temperatures, acclimate by placing jugs in a warm water bath. Climate controlled conditions are required to properly work with epoxy to control both temperature and humidity levels, affecting both working time and proper curing.

Safety – This product has no Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs); however, we recommend working with epoxy resin in a well-ventilated area. We also recommend protective eyewear and gloves when working with the product. NOTE: Some people may be more sensitive to epoxy than others – and may wish to wear a ventilator when using the product. For skin contact, wash with soap and warm water. If the epoxy comes in contact with eyes – do not rub – and flush with water for 15 minutes repeatedly. If irritation persists, seek medical attention immediately. Please contact us for a Materials Safety Data Sheet.

Surface Preparation – The work surface should be free of any dirt, dust, oils, or grease. Denatured alcohol or acetone can be used to clean the surface with a lint-free rag. Your surface should be level so the epoxy can self-level. The room you are working in should be clean, dry, dust and insect-free. Settling dust can cause imperfections on the surface of the epoxy as it is curing.

Application & Curing Tips
Edges & Drips – The casting resin pour can be allowed to run over the sides (when making a river table, for instance), which will create a coating on the vertical edges. These vertical edge coat will not be as thick as the top surface coating; so, manipulation with a brush to keep the layer even is suggested. Drips will form underneath the bar-rail or edge; these drips can be sanded off once the epoxy has cured. Or, if you catch the epoxy when still soft during the curing process, drips may be cut or scraped off.

Air Bubbles – Once the entire surface has been covered with an epoxy resin coat, the process of releasing/removing air bubbles may begin. The best tool for removing bubbles is a small propane torch. (A heat gun may also be used but takes a bit more practice to manipulate as easily and effectively as a torch.) Hold the flame approximately 6–10 inches away from the tabletop and quickly sweep across the entire surface using a waving motion. The heat from the torch/gun will allow for the release of the air bubbles.

NOTE: it is best to intermittently check the surface for bubbles for up to an hour using a torch (or heat gun) as needed.

Curing – Curing times can vary greatly by project, depending on the masks and temperature. The gel time range is between 18–24 hours, and cure time may range between 36–72 hours. Full cure and maximum hardness can require up to 7 days. Do not use or replace any items on your project during this time.

Heat Resistance – The heat resistance, once fully cured, is approximately 120°F. The use of coasters and place mats is recommended to protect tabletop surfaces and reduce heat transfer.

Of course! Deep Pour’s formula is designed for both beginning crafters as well as established artisans. The lighter viscosity enables easier handling and longer working time for projects—from river tables to encasing memorabilia into lasting objects and memories. Please also know that we have a customer service team that can walk you step-by-step through the application process.

We recommend pouring Deep Pour Epoxy Resin in up to two-inch thick layers at a time—pouring in one-third increments—using a torch between pours to remove any air bubbles to ensure crystal-clear results. Additional layers should be added before the prior layer cures fully (at the “firm gel” stage) to allow a bond between the layers.

Casting resins cure much more slowly than epoxy resins – with typical cure time in the 36–48-hour range, whereas epoxy resins generally cure in 12–24 hours. However, epoxy resins will begin to gel in about 20 minutes, while casting resins may take up to 18 hours to fully gel. Since casting resins are used for thicker pours, their thinner viscosity enables slower heat dissipation than coating/tabletop epoxy. Notes: Coating epoxies left in a mixing container beyond 5–10 minutes may produce excessive heat. Pouring a coating epoxy too thick could ruin a project as the epoxy could heat up and potentially crack.

All of Promise’s Epoxies are VOC-Free. A VOC (Volatile Organic Chemical) is a solvent that gets released into the air as the epoxy cures. NOTE: It is important to use an epoxy that is free of these solvents as some epoxies contain cheap fillers or diluents, which are included to make the product cheaper, thereby emitting VOC’s into the air or in water.

Pouring layers of Promise Deep Pour Epoxy Resin may be accomplished in one of two ways; either by adding another layer while the prior one is still in its gelatinous pre-cured state, or if the previous layer is fully cured, we recommend sanding a bit before pouring the next layer to give the newly added resin a surface with which to adhere.

During the curing process, the catalyzed resin goes through a series of thermosetting stages from a liquid to a ‘soft gel’ in about 15–20 minutes, a ‘firm gel’ in 20–30 minutes, and finally to a ‘click-hard’ (cured) stage in 1–24 hours.

If a layer of epoxy resin is poured too thickly, the quality of the cure may be affected impacting the results both aesthetically and functionally. Also, resin layers that are poured too thickly can become too hot and smoke – becoming a hazard. Always follow mixing, pouring and curing recommendations for best results.

The viscosity of the product is very thin. It is important that you have a watertight frame. Any cracks/ crevices/holes need to be sealed prior to pouring to prevent leaking, and ultimately losing product.

UV-Art Epoxy Resin Description

Promise’s UV-Art Epoxy Resin is specially formulated for artisans and crafters. Designed for quicker mixing and longer working times; UV-Art protects delicate artwork with a crystal-clear hard-shell finish. Versatile UV-Art may be used to create, seal and protect a wide variety of projects including drawings, paintings, photography, woodworking, and more with a durable industry-leading UV-resistant coating that resists moisture, corrosion, and handling wear and tear.

Epoxy Resin Advisory Notes:

We strongly recommend that All of these instructions are thoroughly read BEFORE working with epoxy resin.
*This product is not intended to be used with (or over) any type of oil-based products.
*This product is not intended for outdoor use.
*All epoxy has natural variations in color/tint, which may be accented by the color of the surface to which the epoxy is applied. White surfaces, for instance, are always the most challenging in terms of highlighting epoxy hue variations.

1) Before you begin!

Surface Coverage – We offer an epoxy resin coverage calculator to help determine how much epoxy you will need based upon the square footage of the surface you will be working with.

Working Conditions/Temperature – Optimal product working temperature is 75°F–85°F. The product must be stored, mixed, applied, and cured for 72 hours at 75°F–85°F. THIS IS A REQUIREMENT to achieve desired results. If the product has been exposed to cold temperatures; acclimate by placing jugs in a warm water bath. Climate-controlled conditions are required to properly work with epoxy to control both temperature and humidity levels—which affect both working time and proper curing.

Safety – This product has no Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs); however, we recommend working with epoxy resin in a well-ventilated area. We also recommend protective eyewear and gloves when working with the product. NOTE: Some people may be more sensitive to epoxy than others – and may wish to wear a ventilator when using the product. For skin contact, wash with soap and warm water. If the epoxy comes in contact with your eyes, do not rub them. Repeatedly flush with water for 15 minutes. If irritation persists, seek medical attention immediately. Please contact us for a Materials Safety Data Sheet. (MSDS)

Surface Preparation – The project surface should be free of any dirt, dust, oils, or grease. Denatured alcohol or acetone can be used to clean the surface with a lint-free rag. Your surface should be level so the epoxy can self-level. The room you are working in should be clean, dry, dust and insect-free. Settling dust can cause imperfections on the surface of the epoxy as it is curing.

2) Measuring and Mixing – Tools & Tips

UV-Art’s two-part epoxy resin formula was created specifically for intricate art and craft projects. The mixing ratio is a simple-to-use 1-to-1 volume of resin to hardener and is designed to be self-leveling for easy application. UV-Art works with a variety of substrates such as wood, canvas, metal, and plastics, and mixes well with pigments like powdered and liquid tints and dyes for enhancing works of art.

Measuring – It is imperative that the product is measured as accurately as possible and mixed thoroughly. Measure 1 part RESIN to 1 part HARDENER by liquid volume (not weight). Do NOT vary this ratio.

NOTE: We do not recommend mixing a combined total of more than 1 gallon at a time.

Mixing – Add Hardener then Resin to a mixing container with about 30% greater capacity than the amount of product you are mixing.

The goal of mixing is a thorough combination of the two parts. (It helps some people to think of a cake batter mix.) In order to obtain a uniform consistency after mixing, scraping the sides & bottom of the container during mixing is required.

Mix with a flat bottom stir stick or silicon spatula being sure to scrape the sides and bottom of the container multiple times as you mix. Do not beat or whip the epoxy. A folding motion combined with stirring and scraping the mixing vessel sides will allow you to thoroughly combine the two parts. Mix time varies by the volume of product being mixed. UV-Art epoxy quantities of 64–128 ounces typically require 5–8 minutes.

Do not mix any longer than 8-10 minutes. Overmixing the epoxy will cause it to cure quickly in the mixing cup. The product will also get hot and possibly smoke. If you are mixing several batches of epoxy, be sure to use a new, clean container every time.

Pro Tip – If you are new to using epoxy, we recommend starting your mixing process with small batches until you get the hang of it. Epoxy is a time-sensitive product and needs to be mixed and poured before the epoxy begins to cure. Epoxy cures when the two components are mixed in the correct ratio. The process is an exothermic reaction (gives off heat). We do not advise mixing more than 1 gallon of combined product at a time. If the product is mixed and applied per these directions premature curing can be avoided.
Factors that may cause epoxy resin premature curing are:
*Over-vigorous mixing – mix by hand (don’t whip)
*Mixing for too many minutes
*Allowing epoxy to sit in the mixing vessel too long after mixing
*Pouring too deep a layer – the epoxy is designed for 1/8″ thick flood coats with a maximum of 1/4″ depth
*Why is this happening? As soon as the two parts of epoxy and resin are combined, the exothermic reaction that leads to eventual curing, begins. The process of pouring the mixture onto a surface spreads out the epoxy, so it may undergo its reaction as expected. When the mixture is confined—in a mixing vessel—the reaction is intensified and will occur in a much faster and concentrated manner. This leads to excessive heat and possibly smoking. This also occurs during a deep pour.

3) Application & Curing

Seal Coat - A seal coat is a small batch of epoxy that is typically brushed on in a thin layer to seal a porous surface (hardwood, barn wood, knotty wood, etc.). The seal coat minimizes the release of air (bubbles) from the surface into the flood (or finish) coat. (see below). Promise Epoxy Resin is used for both seal coats and flood coats.

NOTES: 

Do Not use the product over any oil-based or unknown coatings
Aged and kiln-dried porous woods may need multiple seal coats – it is not uncommon for as many as 3 seal coats to be used on these surfaces
You may skip the seal coat when pouring the epoxy on a non-porous surface
To apply a seal coat, start on one end of the artwork and pour the resin the full length of the surface, zigzagging as you go. Then use a rubber squeegee, spatula, or a foam brush to move the resin around – covering the entire surface in an even coat. As epoxy cures rather rapidly in the container, it is necessary to paint the seal coat on quickly; or mix up small amounts as you apply to avoid curing in the container while you are working.

Air Bubbles – Once the entire surface has been covered with a seal coat, the process of releasing/removing air bubbles may begin. The best tool for removing bubbles is a small propane torch. (A heat gun may also be used but takes a bit more practice to manipulate as easily and effectively as a torch.) Hold the flame approximately 6–10 inches away from the tabletop and quickly sweep across the entire surface using a waving motion. The heat from the torch/gun will allow for the release of the air bubbles.

NOTE: it is best to intermittently check the surface for bubbles for up to an hour using a torch (or heat gun) as needed.

Once the entire surface is sealed, wait 4–6 hours before applying the flood coat. If the seal is allowed to cure, just lightly sand the surface (320-grit) and wipe clean with a drop of denatured alcohol or acetone before flooding—to ensure adhesion of the next coat.

The Flood/Finish Coat - to apply the flood coat, start on one end and pour the resin the entire length of the surface, zigzagging as you go. After you are finished pouring your mixture, set the container down. DO NOT SCRAPE ANYTHING OUT OF THE MIXING BUCKET. Because you are pouring about three times the amount of product you did with the seal coat, the material will immediately start to flow out. However, you may still want to use a rubber squeegee or foam brush to help guide the material around. A true flood coat will require minimal manipulation.

The product is designed for 1/8″ thick pours but people often pour up to 1/4″ thick at a time. After 4 hours you can pour another layer directly onto the previous layer. If it has been more than 10 hours the previous layer should be lightly sanded (200–300 grit) and wiped clean with a drop of denatured alcohol or acetone before pouring your next layer.

Edges and Drips – The flood coat can be allowed to run over the edges of artwork which will create a coating on the vertical edges. These vertical edge coatings will not be as thick as the top surface coating; so, manipulation with a brush to keep the layer even is suggested. Drips will form underneath the edge, which can be sanded off once the epoxy has cured. Or, if you catch the epoxy when still soft during the curing process, drips may be cut or scraped off.

Air Bubbles – Once the entire surface has been covered with a flood coat, the process of releasing/removing air bubbles may begin. The best tool for removing bubbles is a small propane torch. (A heat gun may also be used but takes a bit more practice to manipulate as easily and effectively as a torch.) Hold the flame approximately 6–10 inches away from the artwork and quickly sweep across the entire surface using a waving motion. The heat from the torch/gun will allow for the release of the air bubbles.

NOTE: it is best to intermittently check the surface for bubbles for up to an hour using a torch (or heat gun) as needed.

Curing – After applying the final coat, the epoxy resin surface should be kept in a clean, dust-free environment at a minimum of 75°F–80°F for 72 hours.

Heat Resistance – The heat resistance once fully cured is 120°F/57°C. The use of coasters and placemats is recommended to protect tabletop surfaces and also reduce heat transfer.

While casting resin may be used on canvas, photography, or other artwork it is recommended that a protective layer of sealing epoxy resin (such as UV-Art) first be applied and allowed to cure to protect the underlying piece.

Yes, Promise UV-Art Epoxy Resin is formulated with a durable industry-leading UV-resistant coating that resists moisture, corrosion, and handling wear and tear. This also helps prevent yellowing over time.

Art resin, by its very design, is meant to be a surface coating for artwork and craft creations—and will self-level to approximately 1/8” in thickness. However, you can make the coating as thick as you like by adding additional 1/8” layers, waiting about 4–5 hours between layers for some curing to occur. This method may also be used for molds and casts. Additionally, layers may be added to the fully cured resin, if the surface is lightly sanded with 200–320 fine grit sandpaper first to help ensure adhesion.

Promise UV-Art Resin is specially formulated for quicker mixing and longer working times. The polymer may be thoroughly mixed in small amounts in as little as three minutes and features working times of 30–45 minutes depending upon factors such as ambient temperature and relative humidity (see above). UV-Art sets to a hard cure in 24 hours—with a full cure occurring in 72 hours.

The heat resistance once fully cured is 135°F/57°C. The use of coasters and placemats is recommended to protect tabletop surfaces and also reduce heat transfer.

Unused and unmixed epoxy resins are not waste and may be saved for future projects—tightly sealed in their original containers at room temperature for six months. Reusable tools may be cleaned as outlined above, while disposable tools may be safely disposed of once the resin has fully cured. The fully cured epoxy resin may be disposed of as non-hazardous waste in most municipalities—check your local waste management requirements.

Embedding Pictures: Objects such as pictures, articles, and maps may be embedded in this product. Some thin paper such as newsprint and magazines must first be sealed with white glue or a similar product. Doing so prevents the epoxy from penetrating the paper and causing a translucent effect. Alternatively, you can laminate thin paper in plastic to keep the epoxy from coming into direct contact with it. Most photo-quality paper does not require these extra steps. Once the papers are properly sealed, they can be placed onto your project surface. You should wait 30 minutes after applying your seal coat of epoxy before placing the objects. Subsequent flood layers will then cover and embed these objects.

Embedding Solid Objects: Wood, rocks, shells, bottle caps, coins, etc. may be embedded with this product also. All porous objects must be sealed first; either with the epoxy itself or another type of sealers such as shellac, lacquer, or polyurethane. If the objects are not adequately sealed, they will release tiny air bubbles which will form around the subject matter during the flood coats. Placement of these objects may be done before you apply the first seal coat or they can be placed into a previously applied seal coat that has been allowed to sit for 30 minutes. Lightweight items such as bottle caps should be glued down to prevent floating.

Embedding Fragile Objects: To embed fragile items special steps can be taken. Using a sprayable aerosol can of polyurethane or lacquer clear coat is an excellent way to seal your object without touching it. Make sure you follow the directions for the sealer and ensure the object is fully cured before coming in contact with the epoxy.

Whether you are bonding, fairing or applying fabrics, the success of the application depends not only on the strength of the epoxy but also on how well the epoxy adheres to the surface to which it is being applied. Three critical steps for surface preparation of any secondary bonding operation.

Surface Preparation: Clean – Dry – Sand

1. Clean – Bonding surfaces must be free of grease, oil, wax, mold release or any contaminants. Use lacquer thinner, acetone or other appropriate solvents to clean surface. Then wipe the surface with paper towels before the solvent dries. Follow all safety precautions when working with solvents.

2. Dry – All bonding surfaces must be as dry as possible for good adhesion. To accelerate drying use a hot air gun, hair dryer or heat lamp. Use fans to move the air if working in confined or enclosed spaces. Watch out for condensation when working outdoors or whenever the temperature of the work environment changes.

3. Sanded – Sand smooth non-porous surfaces with 80-grit aluminum oxide paper will provide a good texture for the epoxy to “key” into. Remember to remove any flaking, chalking, blistering, or old coating before sanding. Remove all dust after sanding.

1) Keep it cool – keep your materials cool and out of the sun, work in the shade whenever possible, and try to work when it’s cooler.

2) Test mix a small amount – you’ll get a good feel for the amount of working time/pot life you have if you test mix a small batch first.

3) Substrate temps matter too – the temperature of the material to which you’re applying epoxy matters too, as it will heat up the polymer.

4) Your temp matters too! Keep yourself as cool as possible and hydrated when working in the summer heat and take breaks as needed.

5) And for those of you addressing boating or other nautical applications using marine grade epoxy resin, use a slow hardener for warm weather as it cures best at 80°F.

Epoxy resin functions best in cooler temperatures of about 75°F (22 °C). So if you can work in a climate-controlled environment, you’ll get better results. Significant increases in temperature of 15°F–20°F (10°C) can easily halve the working and application times of the polymer. Another quick tip when working in sunlight, be sure to mix your resin in plastic containers and not metal. Plastic will help keep the materials cooler.

If your product has a cloudy finish, you can use a multi-purpose clear gloss finish/sealer. Start by placing your project in a cardboard box in a well-ventilated area. The working conditions should be less than 75% humidity.

Alternatively, you can do a seal/flood pour on top and brush it on with a grey foam brush. Make sure to let it dry for at least 24 hours. This will add a clear glass-like finish.

Cold temperatures can affect epoxy resin in several different ways:

Curing time: More frigid temperatures slow down the curing time for the epoxy resin. This may be beneficial if you are looking for a longer working time, but it also means that your project will take an extended amount of time to complete.

Product viscosity: In cooler temperatures, epoxy does not flow as smoothly. You may notice that the product seems much thicker than usual to pour and mix. If your product or surface is too cold, a self-leveling epoxy may not level properly and leave you with imperfections like fisheyes.

Humidity Problems: When you’re working in colder temperatures, increased humidity in the atmosphere may also affect your project. You may get moisture settling on the uncured epoxy which can lead to blushing, surface defects, or reduced shine/gloss.

Don’t worry if your epoxy has traveled through cold areas to get to you. Be sure to acclimate your epoxy back to the proper temperature (75°F) before use.

Once the entire surface is sealed, wait 4–6 hours to pour the flood coat. Do not exceed 10 hours or you run the risk of the flood coat not blending into the seal coat flawlessly.

You can add multiple flood pours. Each flood coat self-levels at approximately 1/8” thick. If depths thicker than 1/8” are desired multiple coats are necessary. You must wait at least 4–10 hours between flood coats. The epoxy will still be tacky so the next pour will stick to it.

If you wait more than 10 hours, you must scuff up the surface lightly with 222–300 grit sandpaper then wipe it clean with denatured alcohol or acetone before applying another coat. Just minor scuffing of the surface is all that you need to do so the next flood coat has some grip to stick to.

The best way to apply the flood coat is to start on one end and pour the resin the entire length of the surface, zigzagging as you go. After you are finished pouring, set the container down. Do NOT try to scrape anything else out of the bucket. Because you are pouring about three times the amount of product you did with the seal coat, the material will immediately start to flow out. However, you will still want to use a rubber squeegee or foam brush to help guide the material around. The less you use the brush, the better.

As long as the product is still mixable (i.e. not cured), it is still viable for use. The mixing process should thin out the discoloration, making viable epoxy resin for your use. Please also keep in mind that when mixed with pigments tints or dyes no yellowing will be noticed. All epoxies with time do yellow. However, when used it will cure just as it did the first time you used it.

First let’s take note as to why this happened.

Reason -1- under-mixed – Mixing is a crucial part of the project. Mixing of the product should be done by hand with a clean stir stick. The more product you are mixing, the longer it will take to achieve a complete mixture. One gallon of the mixture takes approx. 4–5 minutes of mixing. Two gallons of mixture take approx. 6–7 minutes of mixing. Timing this with a watch is a good idea. While mixing make sure to scrape the sides and the bottom of the container to avoid under-cured epoxy. Be sure to push thoroughly down with the stir stick or, you can end up with areas that are hard/dry with other areas that are sticky or tacky that will not harden.

Reason -2- inaccurately measured – If you have measured and mixed your resin correctly, this problem will not occur. You must follow the strict 1-to-1 ratio by volume. Do not guess or eyeball these measurements. Just dumping the product from their original containers is not a proper measurement. It must be measured with reasonably precise accuracy using a graduated tub.

Don’t worry – you can fix this!

Epoxy that remains sticky after the curing time will stay sticky unless the following measures are taken to repair the situation.

1. Scrape off the wet epoxy

You will have to start by scraping off all of the wet epoxy.

Don’t worry – your project or art underneath will not be disturbed. Be sure all the liquid epoxy is removed before you pour your coat of fresh Epoxy on top. If you do not scrape off the wet epoxy, this could result in leaking under the new Epoxy coat. Wipe with denatured alcohol.

2. Sand your project (finish it off with 222–230 fine sand grit paper)

You’ll want to sand the entire piece, next. Be sure to include the cured patch, if you needed to patch any holes or gaps. After sanding, wipe off any dust from the entire surface. (wipe it off with denatured alcohol or acetone)

The object is to create a layer that the new epoxy can adhere properly to.

Don’t be worried if it looks like a mess at this point—when you pour the second coat, it will look as good as new!

3. Pour The Second Coat (pour 1/8″new flood coat)

Be sure that your first coat is 100% cured and go ahead and pour your second layer.

We recommend using our epoxy within 6 months of purchase.

Store your epoxy resin and hardener at room temperature and keep it closed and in its original container to prevent contamination. With proper storage, resin and hardeners should remain usable for up to 6 months after opening. After lengthy storage, mix a small test batch to assure proper curing, before using.

Hardeners may darken with time, but physical properties are not affected by color. If clear finishing, be aware of a possible color change if very old and new hardeners are used on the same project.